Sure you’ve been to Halifax, but have you really done Halifax?
After about half a dozen visits to this fun loving, east coast city I thought I’d seen it all, but it turns out I’d barely scratched the surface. We all know about the popular tourist attractions in Halifax like visiting the lively waterfront, wandering through the Public Gardens and admiring the Citadel’s hilltop perch, so on this latest visit my intent was to check out areas beyond the downtown that are lesser known.
Boy, was I ever impressed.
Larger-than-life murals, quirky boutiques, cute cafes, fishing villages, breweries, glamping domes, beaches and spa retreats are just some of the gems I discovered–and better yet, most of them are free to visit!
Here are some of the best places to visit in Halifax, Nova Scotia (and beyond) that you probably didn’t know about.
Quick find
The North End
For a culture kick, head to the North End which starts near the base of the Citadel and boasts some of the most beloved boutiques, cafes, breweries, restaurants and nightlife frequented by Haligonians.
The district was once considered the city’s economic hub, but was devastated during the Halifax Explosion in 1917 resulting in decades of crime, poverty and segregation.
Its eventual revitalization has energized the streets, bringing larger-than-life murals, an eclectic arts scene, night markets and independent businesses housed in colourful saltbox houses which lure hipsters, foodies and creatives alike.
The North End is very walkable, with most of the highlights found along Agricola Street and Gottingen Street. Be sure to check out the Hydrostone District along Young Street, an English-garden style suburb which looks like a picture-perfect European streetscape and is designated as a National Heritage Site.
Its market area has top-rated eateries alongside independent shops where you can pick up fresh flowers, artisan cheese and locally made gifts.
To learn more about the area’s history, head to the Africville Museum in Seaview Park for an education on how the once thriving community was forced to relocate to free up land for Halifax’s industrial expansion back in the 1960s, and how they met the brutal racism with grace and resilience.
The museum is now housed in the rebuilt Seaview United Baptist Church and holds exhibits and artifacts chronicling the injustice and celebrating their community spirit.
Globe Guide’s top picks in the North End
- Fuel up with a hearty breakfast at Seven Bays Bouldering which has a cafe, craft beer…and wall climbing!
- Enjoy some people watching at Cafe Lara
- Nosh on French-style pastries at Julien’s Patisserie Bakery & Café in the Hydrostone District
- Shop for new threads at Sattva Boutique or Biscuit General Store
- Soak up the sun on the lush lawns of Halifax Common
Where to stay: Moxy Halifax Downtown
It’s no secret that I’m a huge fan of Moxy hotels thanks to their fun unpretentious vibe, modern rooms with creative layouts to accommodate all types of travellers and welcoming reception areas that encourage guests to kick back and get to know each other.
The Moxy Halifax Downtown (the first Moxy in Canada, and part of the Marriott brand) delivers on all fronts…and did I mention the free welcome drink and bottomless jars of candy at reception?
Another thing you can always count on when booking a Moxy is it will be in a prime location, and true to form this one is close to all of the best things to do in Halifax.
Found near the Citadel on the edge of the North End and walking distance to the waterfront and Spring Garden Road, the Moxy is a great base for exploring Halifax on foot and there’s also covered, underground parking on site. Book on Expedia or Reserve on Booking.com
Dartmouth
One of the best ways to appreciate Halifax is by getting out on the water, which is why taking the ferry across the harbour to Dartmouth is a popular pastime that rewards with great city views.
The City of Lakes gets its moniker from its many waterways (there are 23!), ideal for canoeing, swimming and kayaking.
Along with outdoor adventures, Dartmouth is known for its food scene and trendy downtown area along Portland Street where visitors can sip on cider or craft beer on sun-soaked patios, pop into funky independent boutiques and check out all the street art.
For more of a nature fix in Dartmouth, head to:
- The Dartmouth Harbourwalk Trail, a three-kilometre long pathway linking the Alderney and Woodside ferry terminals near the water which connects to the Trans Canada Trail, Halifax’s park system, biking and walking trails.
- Sullivan’s Pond, a relaxing park close to downtown complete with a fountain feature.
- Shubie Park, part of the 114-kilometre Shubenacadie Canal Waterway. There are off-leash areas for four-legged friends, serene trails shrouded in shrubbery, interpretive panels, canal locks and even beaches.
How to get from Halifax to Dartmouth
To get between Halifax and Dartmouth, drive across one of the two toll bridges stretching across the Halifax Harbour: the Angus L. Macdonald Bridge near downtown, or the A. Murray MacKay Bridge closer to the Bedford Basin.
The fee is $1.25 each way–try to have proper change on hand as only quarters, loonies and toonies are accepted in the baskets, otherwise there are a couple of kiosks where credit cards are accepted.
To visit by boat, the ferry costs $2.75 each way (exact change required), and the 15 minute ride is an easy, affordable way to sneak in a boat cruise during your time in Halifax.
Fisherman’s Cove
Now THIS was a fun find and one of the more unique things to do in Halifax.
Fisherman’s Cove is like walking back in time through a sleepy fishing village, yet it’s so close to the city centre you can actually see downtown.
Found 15 minutes southeast of Dartmouth (and a 20 minute drive from the Halifax harbour), visitors are welcomed to this 200-year-old village by a kaleidoscope of colourful shops lining a wooden boardwalk.
The scene frames a narrow waterway where fishermen haul in fresh seafood, making this the perfect place to pick up the catch of the day.
Browse the souvenir shops, grab an ice cream cone, fuel up on tasty fish ‘n chips and watch the tide roll in at this coastal escape. There’s also the opportunity to head out with A & M Sea Charters for a different vantage point of the city’s beaches and forts.
Porters Lake + Lawrencetown Beach
Nova Scotia is all about coastlines, and there are some spectacular ones just half an hour from Halifax along the Eastern Shore.
Sandy beaches, surf spots, bogs and birding are among the natural highlights of this quiet, laid-back area, along with independent galleries, artisans and farm-to-table dining experiences.
Tackle the wild surf on Lawrencetown Beach or Martinique Beach (local outfitters can help with lessons, wetsuits and boards), head out on a boat tour or cycle along the 10-kilometre-long Atlantic View trail.
There’s also a well-known charitable wildlife rehabilitation centre called Hope for Wildlife which is great to visit with kids and learn about the impressive efforts that have led to the rescue, rehabilitation and release of about 80-thousand injured and orphaned wild animals since 1997.
Where to stay: Nalu Retreat
The highlight of my entire time exploring Halifax’s lesser-known areas was staying overnight at Nalu Retreat, a blissful wellness escape situated along Porters Lake with three luxurious glamping domes.
I’m lucky to have done a ton of glamping over the years, so trust me when I say they’ve absolutely nailed the experience and no detail has been overlooked, making it one of the absolute best, period.
The lakefront location is a stunner–just far enough from the city that you feel like you’re totally away from it all, yet only a 20 minute drive to get a great cup of coffee at a cafe overlooking the ocean (priorities, right?).
The views are gorgeous (especially if you reserve #2 which I stayed in), overlooking thick forests stretching towards glittering Porters Lake which are best enjoyed while barbecuing on the sprawling deck or soaking in the private hot tub.
Each dome has 16 foot high ceilings, a full kitchen, dining area, bathroom, fireplace, air conditioning and living space with panoramic windows that bring the outside in.
There’s also a queen size bed with luxe linens, and that peacefulness meant one the best sleeps I’ve had in a long time–especially impressive, as I was seven months pregnant at the time (if you know, you know).
Nalu is a Hawaiian word that means ‘to meditate, ponder and contemplate,’ and this retreat was designed to inspire a wellness getaway with touches like a meditation loft, sound bowls, crystals and yoga mats found throughout.
A nordic spa is planned for the property, making this an incredible spot that’s well worth the splurge for a couple’s getaway or solo-cation. Click here to book
Peggy’s Cove
Alright so this iconic spot (and one of my fave places in Nova Scotia) isn’t technically in Halifax, but considering it’s less than an hour away Peggy’s Cove is one of the best half or full day excursions near the city.
A winding road leads past a white steepled church, wiry lobster traps and homes weathered by generations of salt, wind and sea, as you make your way through the small community towards the water.
As one of the most photographed spots in all of Canada, many people are familiar with the Peggy’s Cove lighthouse (officially called Peggy’s Point Lighthouse), a beacon perched on the craggy coastline which has guided sailors and fishermen since 1868.
READ MORE: Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia: More than just a lighthouse
St. Margaret’s Bay makes for some dramatic scenery: the shoals, which have been given monikers like Halibut Rock and Horseshoe Shoal, are an eye-catching deep blue which create a striking reflection off the water when brightly-painted fishing boats are docked in the harbour.
Throngs of tourists are drawn to Peggy’s Cove, so arrive early or late in the day to beat the mid-day crowds, then spend a bit of time ducking into the surrounding shops, art galleries, and noshing on fresh lobster rolls.
A fantastic addition to the area is Oceanstone Resort, which has bright, airy cottages, rooms and suites overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. A highlight is their tranquil hydrotherapy spa which is the ultimate place to unwind thanks to its vitality pools, river walk, salt-inhalation hammam, aromatherapy sauna, fireside relaxation areas and invigorating plunge pool.
Passes range from $60-$85, and body treatments are also available to book.
Globe Guide tip: Another unique place to stay and get away from it all is Nova Glamping, just five minutes from Peggy’s Cove on a private island. Cozy up in the log cabin, or do some star-gazing from one of the luxury glamping domes with endless ocean views.
More day trips from Halifax
One of the best perks of visiting Nova Scotia is that the province is relatively compact, so you can see a lot of it during day trips from the city.
Some of my favourites are:
- Spend an afternoon wine tasting in Wolfville
- Celebrate fall harvest and admire the vibrant foliage in the Annapolis Valley
- Relax on Queenstown Beach
- Drive along the Nova Scotia Lighthouse Route to see quaint fishing villages and sweeping beaches
Globe Guide explored Halifax and area in collaboration with Tourism Nova Scotia and Destination Halifax. As always, hosts have no editorial influence on articles.
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